venerdì 17 marzo 2017

How to make a Jabot.




A Jabot is a clothing accessory made of lace or other light fabric, used to decorate the front of shirts.
In the 17th and 18th century Jabots were used to decorate higher class man's shirts whilst in the 19th century they were attached by brooches to woman's clothing.

Over the years we have seen that they came back in fashion, but my personal need to sew a Jabot was to decorate my son's carnival pirate shirt.


Requirements:

  • 2 meters of ribbon lace 6cm high,
  • 25cm of fabric the same colour of the lace,
  • 50cm of elastic 1cm wide,
  • scissors, sewing thread, needle and pins,
  • a piece of paper for the pattern and a ruler,
  • sewing machine.

Method:
Jabot with 4 layers of lace.
Prepare pattern by drawing top edge 8cm wide.AB
If you use 6cm wide lace leave an allowance of 5cm for every frill, in order to slightly overlap the frills.

Bottom edge 14cm wide. CD

Join diagonal lines AC and BD.

Then draw top hem allowance 2.5cm high in order to be able to pass the elastic.  EF

Remember to leave hem allowance of 1cm on side and bottom edges.



Fold fabric right sides together, and pin paper pattern.
Cut fabric and baste sides (AC and BD) and edges (CD).
Sew with sewing machine.  As this is not a
very big project to create, you can also hand sew.
Leave the top edge open in order to enable us to turn the fabric.




.

Turn the fabric, by pulling the bottom edge toward the top edge.   Push the corners in place with a long pointed object, being careful not the damage the seam.

Pin edges smooth in place and sew the edges.
                   


Hem the top edge, keeping in mind that we have to pass some elastic through the hem.

           
                       

Now we have to prepare the lace.  Cut 4 pieces in the following sizes.  25cm, 35cm, 45cm and 55cm.
.            
                 

Hem the side edges of all four pieces of lace.
Gather to the measurement required.
Tip:   I normally use the biggest straight stitch available on the sewing machine to gather frills.  Sew a straight linea and then pull the top thread.
               
                  

Pin the gathered lace in place. Of course the shortest frill goes at the top.
When you are happy with the result, baste in place to have a neater finishing and finally sew either by machine or by hand the frills in place.
         
                     

Pass some elastic between the top hem.

             
                    

Punto dopo punto! by Stefy.

Come fare un Jabot