venerdì 17 marzo 2017

Hand-made, low-cost, recycled Pirate's Carnival Costume.




Final decision on carnival costume for this year has been taken.   The choice was between dressing up my little man as a policeman or as a pirate and he opted for the pirate's costume.  I'm glad about it because even though the work is almost the same i.e. jacket, shirt and trousers, the policeman's costume needs to be perfect in details, whilst I can use some fantasy in creating the pirate's costume.

I decided on a white shirt, a red long jacket,  black trousers and waistcoat and then of course I have to prepare a pair of black boots and a hat or a bandana.   So I went in search the fabrics.  I found a piece of white cotton fabric and a piece of black jersey.  I thought to use the white cotton for the shirt,  but I wasn't sure about using the jersey for the trousers.  So I had a look in my wardrobe and I found a shirt of mine which I  didn't wear anymore because it was too tight for me.  It was a  red, black and silver stripped shirt, perfect for a pirate's jacket.  Whilst searching I also found a white body shirt which I could easily transform.

THE SHIRT:
 Luckily it fitted my son almost perfectly and after some alterations I had it done.
I unsewed off the sleeves because there was too much gathering.  I took off all thegathering and narrowed the upper part of the sleeve to fit in the sleeve hole and sewed back the sleeve.  I cut the bottom part because it was a body shirt and did a normal hem.  I took off  the pocket and the darts to give it a masculine cut.  Being a feminine shirt, I also thought of  changing the side of buttons and buttonholes, but at the end I decided not to change sides, because the closing will be covered by a  lace jabot. I also added some  lace frill on the sleeves hem.
The shirt.
             

Pocket and sleeve removed
     

Narrowed sleeve and shortened shirt.


THE JACKET:
Pattern and cutting the front border.





Being a very tight fit model and and my son being a big boy it fitted him well as a Jacket.  So I started off by shortening the sleeves.  Then I thought to decorate it by adding a red border on the front and on the sleeves. First I made a paper patterns and used some red satin fabric which I had at home to create the borders.   After cutting out the fabric, I pinned it in place and then sewed all the borders.
I didn't like the result because the red of the fabric and the red of the stripe were a bit different.  So I gave it a try by adding some ribbons.  I sewed a silver ribbon to cover the seam which I had to gather a bit to fit exactly and then to have a contrast I sewed black ribbon on the red part of the shirt and red ribbon on the stripped part.  I did the same work on the bottom part of the sleeve.
I shortened the shirt  and attached two large buttons and prepared the buttonholes and the Jacket was ready.  To be honest I wasn't very sure on the result, but I had no more time and fabric to prepare something else.


THE TROUSERS:
                                                                                                       

At this point I had to buy a metre ok black satin fabric for the trousers.  
I placed another pair of trousers on the fabric to avoid taking the
pattern,  I cut the fabric and then sewed the trousers, with elastic in the waist hem.





THE BOOTS:
I bought 40cm of black foamfabric (fabric with a layer of thin foam already attached). I then prepared a paper pattern for the boots by  placing a shoe on the paper and drawing the outline of the shoe.  I cut the pattern about two or three cm bigger then the outline and then tried it several times on my son's foot (wearing shoes), before I obtained the 'almost perfect' pattern.






THE JABOT:
I prepared the jabot with four layers of lace. Read how to make a Jabot.
 

THE BANDANA:
I wanted to buy a ready made pirate's hat, but my son didn't like it, so we opted for a bandana.   Some years back my daughter has also been dressed as a pirate, so I re-used the scarf she had used as a bandana.  I shortened it a bit, becaused it was very long, and I sewed it to form a bandana.  I attached a fake knot and skeloton's badge.

Punto dopo punto by Stefy!




'gala' in pizzo / jabot



Il Jabot è un accessorio indossato dagli uomini del alta società nel 17º e 18º secolo. Le donne hanno iniziato ad indossarlo per abbellire le loro camicette nel 19º secolo.

Spesso torna di moda in diverse varianti.  La stoffa più adatta è il pizzo.

Io l'ho creato per un costume di carnevale da pirata.

Occorrete:

  • 2 metri di nastro di pizzo alto 6cm,
  • 25cm of tessuto dello stesso colore del pizzo, 
  • 50cm elastico largo 1cm,
  • forbici, cotone per cucire, ago e spilli,
  • Un po'di carta per il modello, riga e penna,
  • macchina da cucire.

Metodo:
Jabot con 4 volantini di pizzo.

Fate il modello come segue:
Iniziamo con il bordo superiore di 8cm.AB
Se usate pizzo largo 6cm, calcolate 5 cm per ogni volantino, in tal modo che i volantini vengono un po' uno sopra l'altro.
Il bordo inferiore deve essere a 20cm (5cm x 4 volantini) e deve misurare 14cm. CD
Unite il bordo laterale AC e BD.
Poi aggiungiamo il bordo superiore EF, che serve per rifinire il lavoro è passare l'elastico.

Il modello è pronto.



Appoggiate il modello sulla stoffa piegate in due, diritto con diritto. Si taglia la stoffa.
Ricordate di tagliare 1cm in più tutto attorno per le cuciture.

                   

È il momento di cucire il bordo laterale e inferiore.  Lasciamo il bordo superiore aperto per girare il lavoro.  Dato che non è un progetto grande si può anche cucire a mano.

Tagliate la stoffa in eccesso  e girate sotto sopra.




               


Spingete gli angoli con un attrezzo appuntito.  Sistemate i bordi belli piatti con gli spilli e impunturare.

Orlare la parte superiore del jabot, lasciando abbastanza spazio per passare l'elastico.
               
         
                       

Ora passiamo al pizzo.
Tagliate 4 pezzi con le seguenti misure: 25cm, 35cm, 45cm e 55cm.
.          
                 

Orlate i bordi del pizzo per un lavoro più pulito, e arricciare il pizzo alla misura giusta.

                  


Iniziate con il volantino più piccolo, che va cucito al bordo superiore ed a seguire gli altrimenti tre volantini.

                      

Passate l'elastico nel orlo superiore.


                    

Punto dopo punto! by Stefy.

How to make a Jabot.

How to make a Jabot.




A Jabot is a clothing accessory made of lace or other light fabric, used to decorate the front of shirts.
In the 17th and 18th century Jabots were used to decorate higher class man's shirts whilst in the 19th century they were attached by brooches to woman's clothing.

Over the years we have seen that they came back in fashion, but my personal need to sew a Jabot was to decorate my son's carnival pirate shirt.


Requirements:

  • 2 meters of ribbon lace 6cm high,
  • 25cm of fabric the same colour of the lace,
  • 50cm of elastic 1cm wide,
  • scissors, sewing thread, needle and pins,
  • a piece of paper for the pattern and a ruler,
  • sewing machine.

Method:
Jabot with 4 layers of lace.
Prepare pattern by drawing top edge 8cm wide.AB
If you use 6cm wide lace leave an allowance of 5cm for every frill, in order to slightly overlap the frills.

Bottom edge 14cm wide. CD

Join diagonal lines AC and BD.

Then draw top hem allowance 2.5cm high in order to be able to pass the elastic.  EF

Remember to leave hem allowance of 1cm on side and bottom edges.



Fold fabric right sides together, and pin paper pattern.
Cut fabric and baste sides (AC and BD) and edges (CD).
Sew with sewing machine.  As this is not a
very big project to create, you can also hand sew.
Leave the top edge open in order to enable us to turn the fabric.




.

Turn the fabric, by pulling the bottom edge toward the top edge.   Push the corners in place with a long pointed object, being careful not the damage the seam.

Pin edges smooth in place and sew the edges.
                   


Hem the top edge, keeping in mind that we have to pass some elastic through the hem.

           
                       

Now we have to prepare the lace.  Cut 4 pieces in the following sizes.  25cm, 35cm, 45cm and 55cm.
.            
                 

Hem the side edges of all four pieces of lace.
Gather to the measurement required.
Tip:   I normally use the biggest straight stitch available on the sewing machine to gather frills.  Sew a straight linea and then pull the top thread.
               
                  

Pin the gathered lace in place. Of course the shortest frill goes at the top.
When you are happy with the result, baste in place to have a neater finishing and finally sew either by machine or by hand the frills in place.
         
                     

Pass some elastic between the top hem.

             
                    

Punto dopo punto! by Stefy.

Come fare un Jabot